I took a "rest day" in San Mateo Rio Hondo and biked over to the much more trafficked San José del Pacífico on dirt roads. With the addition of coffee and removal of all my camping gear I felt superhuman.
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Minibuses divulged gaggles of young tourists (both Mexican and extranjero) onto the highway, which was lined uniformly with mushroom themed shops, some openly advertising 🍄 mágicos for sale. I ate half a roast chicken and biked back in time to catch the sunset from under the radio tower.
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That night the patio restaurant across the way made some very good wood fired pizza. I bundled up in my puffy and wolfed one down. Sunday morning everything was sleepy and closed, and I started the long descent towards the coast.
Or maybe I should say "descent" since losing 2400m was actually climbing 1800m and descending 4200m! The first day felt very slow. The topography of the Sierra Madre Sur is insane. At least as steep as SoCal's San Gabriel range. Always with the Pacific cloud bank in the distance.
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I went down a deadend side road and found a little path into the bushes that led to a small hillside coffee field, where I camped and watched the mist roll in. Deafened by insect sounds, I climbed down to the stream for water. Fireflies appeared in the moonless dark.
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The whole day I'd managed to descend, on net, from 2400m to 2000m, and it was exhausting. Around lunch I came across a comedor at an intersection and ate a huge tlayuda, which was food for the whole day. I stopped at this tienda for some Electrolit and shared an earthquake with the owner.
I'd reserved a place in Mazunte before leaving San Mateo, giving myself 2 days to make the descent, so on Monday I had a fixed destination. I hate the stress that kind of commitment creates. 10 hours of riding, losing 2000m, descending into the lush cloud forests.
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