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@stroughtonsmith H2S on Long Island, P2S at the beach.

They're both amazing, although the new X2D looks so great that I wish I'd waited for it for the beach one.

@marcoarment for me it’s more than enough for most cases. It doesn’t have a problem with warping, sticking to bed (or to itself), -CF variant of it is not problematic at all and gives a little extra strength/temperature resistance. Doesn’t need much temperature control either.

@marcoarment and don’t forget that PETG is basically a sponge and a huge pain if you try to print it damp. I’ve had my share of trouble with ASA adhesion, but only (admittedly moist) PETG has ever left me just giving up on a nozzle and replacing it.

I can see the benefit over PLA for certain strength needs; flexing rather than snapping is often legitimately better. But these days ASA or PC are just … better?

@marcoarment I’ve printed accessories for my R1S that have absolutely melted inside the cabin during the summer.

I'd also like to put in a good word for Bambu's "TPU for AMS” filament: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/tpu-for-ams

It's not as squishy as regular TPU, but it gets a lot of the way there, with NONE of the drama and difficulty.

- strong and flexible
- works with AMS
- feeds through everything just fine, doesn't break or snag
- keeping it in a box with desiccant is sufficient drying

I have "real" TPU as well, but I haven't used it once since I got the TPU for AMS.

@marcoarment A decade ago, most hobby 3D printers people only had easy access to PLA, PETG, and ABS (outside of speciality filaments like nylon, wood fill, etc.). In that narrow world, PETG was heads-and tails better than PLA for anything that might get soft in the sun sitting in your car, for example. Also, while PLA is stronger, it is usually more brittle than PETG, so the failure mode was different. Today things are better, with the availability of PCTG, PC, as well as filled filaments.