I recently did the same "journey", but away from Google stuff.
And I went the "self-hosting" route for most things.
But my experience is that it was actually easier than I expected, and also... empowering.
Now I'm running most things on my own NAS which soon will be joined by a dedicated home/network server for running some other services.
For me Photo management was one of the trickier ones... but then I discovered #Immich that has helped A LOT to replace Google Photos.
But I don't self-host everything... some services are good enough like Raindrop for bookmarking and Deezer for music, because fuck Spotify.